69. The Grand Canyon

           

          Western rivers have a way of forming grandiose landscapes out of the mountains from which they flow. The Colorado is no different as it flows its muddy way from the central Rockies to the Gulf of California. In fact, probably the most spectacular of all the canyons in the world is America’s very own Grand Canyon of the Colorado in northern Arizona. I have read many attempts to describe the awesome sight of that canyon, but nothing, not even photographs, can truly prepare you for what you will see. My experience has always been driving through the barren desert and forests of Juniper and Ponderosa Pine as you get there. You will see places to stop where there are restaurants and various promotions for the canyon, but at that point all you see are plains.

            Then it happens. You might cross a bridge over some gorge where the earth seems to open to the chasms of the deep. This is where some creek has found its way from the heights to the depths of the canyon. You drive further and (in winter or spring, at least—during summer you can’t drive in the park) you come to the edge. There the world opens up into brilliant rusts and ochres against a vivid blue sky and you are truly awe struck. It is unbelievable and indescribable. When you first see it all the babble and noise of the other tourists just inexplicably disappears and all you can do is stare. I imagine for some, especially those first people who ever came upon it without any preparation, the experience must border on terrifying. Here you are reminded of how tiny and insignificant you truly are and that can be both humbling and frightening. But it is also immensely beautiful. There are places all over the world that pull us away from ourselves. Here in America one of those places is the Grand Canyon. It’s one of those places I love.